Running for 8 days and 260km in a very remote part of Eastern Africa, with the nearest hospital probably more than 24 hours away, required some preparation and my challenge was enhanced by adding an extra 6 days climbing to the top of the highest single standing mountain on the planet.
All gear laid out on bed ready to be packed up
And with only 23 kg luggage allowance something had to give….but I have to admit finding myself half way up Kilimanjaro with only one pair of underwear was a bit of a surprise….I enjoyed however the luxury of changing into a new set of running gear every morning of the run very much!
After a comfortable flight (got three seats to stretch to Abu Dhabi) I arrived in what looked like a very provincial airport, in Dar es Salaam, or DAR as the local say. I was pleased that I had my visa organised beforehand as the queue for visa was endless and I would have surly missed my domestic connection. To connect domestically one needs to actually get out of the building (Exit) only to turn right and enter the departure area next door to re-screen everything and check-in. All went rather smoothly for me, unlike my French running buddy whose bag ended up in Nairobi (Kenya) for a day before catching up with him again in Moshi. Apparently he did not tip the bag carrier…..
The lush gardens of Simon’s B&B – our start and end camp on the foot of Kilimanjaro at 1,700m altitude
Dining area with fireplace keeping us warm and smokey
First two days were relaxing and final preparation at Simon’s great accommodation near Mbahe Village close to Marangu Gate (Park Entry for Kilimanjaro Climb), the five of us (Hannah (UK), Marco (France), Chris (USA), Helmut (Austria) and myself) plus our four guides headed off into the wilderness of Kilimanjaro National Park. We literally ran the whole 260km length of the border line of the NP.
Profile Day 1 – 32km, 15 serious climbs in total 1,798m up and 1,733m down
Five runners and 4 guides ready for the 260km
Before we head off Simon asked us all to help plant a tree each on his farm land to help re-forest the area and leave a small legacy from our visit. Just looking at the profile map freaked me out – at 1,800m altitude, with a very hot and humid sun burning down on us, we know we are in for a hell of a day. And we were not wrong, spending almost nine long hours on our feet to cover the first 32 km. We crossed dozens of streams and rivers, many with deep and steep gorges to descend and ascend, while keeping Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro’s second peak, on our left and Kenya’s Tsavo National Park to our right. I was completely spent and exhausted at the end of this very difficult first day.
First climb and those guides jogged up!
Another steep downhill
Sunset at first Camp – we all had our own tent plus kitchen and dining tent
Profile Day 2 – 31km with only one long climb, 1,086m up and 902m down
Helmut and Markus having a rest on the road along the border to Kenya
Boarder Stone with Kenya. We are standing in Kenya
Helmut and I stuck together at end of the group and having a photo stop
Boy walking to school with piece of wood under arm – for the fire to cook lunch
Small girl watching the strange white runners crossing their village
Hannah in background but check out the Chameleon on the tree
We approach Kilimanjaro’s drier northeast flank, the number and depth of the gorges lessen, as did the number of settlements. We encounter quite a few noisy colobus and blue monkeys in the forests. And for a few kilometers we ran along the border to Kenya keeping its Tsavo National Park to our right. This was a much better day even so the sun was still out there and hot. Our camp was set-up after about 25km run so we dropped or bags at the tent and made up for the missing 6 km running a loop through a very cool and pleasant pine forest.
Ahhhh, it took some searching but on day two Helmut and I finally found some cold beer! Relaxing in front of our tents on Day 2
After 6 hours of running we could enjoy the luxury of a hot shower using the bathroom in one of the huts next to our camp and I found a place which sold some luck warm Kilimanjaro Beer. Helmut and I (being the slowest two in the group) needed some encouraging.
Profile Day 3 – 38km mostly downhill along the Kenyan Boarder. 532m up and 1,077m down
The forest thins and with it the sun burned even more on us, as we run through a dry and rocky landscape, passing Maasai settlements and with the chance to see wildlife migrating from the plains below to mountainside above. Marco, our French chef from Paris, being always the fastest in the front, ran almost into a Giraffe! Our campsite after 6 hours of running was at a primary school overlooks Amboseli National Park in Kenya, where the only light comes from the stars above and the few safari lodges within the park. Stunning scenery with Kilimanjaro sticking its head out through the clouds and watching the sun go down over the plains of Africa!
Crossing dry corn fields
Chris running down a huge lava field
Camp 3 in a school yard
Kilimanjaro in background and sunset. Hannah, Markus and Helmut waiting for dinner
Profile Day 4 – 31km becoming 45km. 780m up and 778m down
Fogy morning – Elephant, Buffalo, Giraffe and many Baboons in the area
Trying to find our way in the thick bushes and high grass
Limited running in this dense and bushy landscape
Single file of runners disappearing in the fog
Lunch break – Helmut and Markus rehydration
Ah, Serenity – we arrived at Camp 4 – a 3 star hotel!
A bed for a king (or tired runner)
Exiting the sparse landscape, we skirt Legumishera Hill, which contains a small lake at the summit and is the source of much local superstition. Most of the day we were engulfed in thick, wet fog, which gave us the feeling of running through Jurassic Park. We run several hilly kilometers along the forest edge between Kilimanjaro National Park and cultivated land, coming across fresh Elephant and Buffalo droppings together with regular encounters of big groups of Baboons, enticed our guides to drive us on a bit faster to avoid any unfriendly encounters with local wildlife. We planned to finish the day at Simba Farm, one of the original European farms in Tanganyika Territory, however they were fully booked so we had to run a bit further trying to catch up with our support vehicle. So we had a 45km/11hrs day in the end. In the confusion our jeep with the bags ended up in the wrong valley and our stage got longer and longer. Never mind, this is Africa and after an extra 15km drive we ended up staying in a very nice hotel for the night – most comfortable bed and hot shower plus great dinner and cold beer! Woo Hoo!
Profile Day 5 – the hills are back, 44km with 1,660m up and 1,756m down
The group having a rest on top of one of the many hills enjoying the view
These climbs never end
Curious local kids sneaking up on us
Since we did our long stage yesterday today’s day was 10km shorter then anticipated. We exited to a hot and dry lowland stretch, and return to the verdant southern slopes of Kilimanjaro with many steep up and downs for the last part of the stage. This time Helmut and I stuck together at a slower pace and with using the poles, our ‘pole – pole’ (slowly, slowly) approach paid off and we did not end up at camp completely exhausted again. We camped near a school and quick became the attraction of the year for the 200+ kids. Chris lost his mobile phone on the down hill run but luckily for him some local investigating and baksheesh helped to get it back in one piece.
Group waiting for the jeep but I spotted it on the rim of the next valley – only another 8km to run!
Forgot to tell you that Helmut and I started yesterday a deal with our support crew giving them money every morning to organise a couple of cold cokes and a bottle of beer each for dinner – this worked a treat and made life so much more pleasant! Tomorrow is a big day – profile map looks like Day 1 on steroids…
Profile Day 6 – 42km and a hard one – 2,513m up! and 1,466m down with three steep peaks in a row
Today we encounter our steepest valleys and ridges above a densely settled area of smallholder Arabica coffee farms that use centuries-old irrigation canals dug along the mountainside. Passing many village with each having its own primary school, meeting many kids showing of their unique and distinctive uniform colour. Helmut became my pacemaker and with the help of a NoDoz we managed to finish a very long 11 hours day! Tonight we camped at Simon’s farm and we had our first night of rain (ended up witha wet mat in the tent!)
One could really get lost in this rain forest without guides
One of many waterfalls we had to cross
A troubled bridge of calm waters
Some of us look buggered
Wet feet this time as no bridge to cross river
Lush and green country side
Profile Day 7 – 25km a hilly up of 1,658m and down 1,647m
The distance get a bit shorter but the route is still brutal with its steep climbs and drops.
We saw and crossed many spectacular waterfalls and rivers and sometimes we even had to cut our way through thick jungle plus with the rain from last night the trail got muddy and slippery – all in all a very tiering day with all of us at least falling or slipping once
Kidia was the site of the first European settlement in the Kilimanjaro region. The original church and mission station are still intact. Each mountain ridge in this area is either predominantly Lutheran or Catholic, depending on the original missionary group operating there. Another day of extreme elevation changes lasting almost 9 hours!
Not sure what Marco has in mind following me with a machete in his hand
Helmut climbing up another hill
Profile Day 8 – a mere 22km and apart from a few steep up good running 1,061m up and 982m down
Running high above the villages and just outside the national park boundary, our final day brings even more spectacular views and a joyous return to Mbahe Village, where we started 7 days ago. Comfortable 5 hours run in cool weather – we did it! Running 8 days around the roof of Africa. The beer tonight tasted soooooo good!
Everyone looking forward to a hot shower
The Kilimanjaro Stage Run is probably more a hard-core trek as 80% of the route is too steep to run for a normal person….keep in mind Simon bloody ran up to the top of Kili a few years ago in less then 10 hours!! So it is all relative, right.
The whole event is top class – excellent service through out, with comfy and big tents or luxury accommodation. We had access to hot water to wash every night and morning, great and plenty of food and if one get’s organised a cold coke and beer is possible every day too!
8 days / 260km / Elevation +11’088m / – 10’341m
Guess I am ready to add a short 70km and +4’000m climb to the top of Kibo now!
Thanks to Chris and Marco for sharing their photos
Run 4 Vision 